
OUR FRENCH HERITAGE
FIRST FAMILIES SETTLED IN PASTORAL ANNAPOLIS VALLEY
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By 1650, more than 300 people were settled in and around Port Royal, then the principal place of Acadian
colony. A few more settlers remained at La Have, and there were forts at St John, and Penobscot Bay.
Among the Acadians were men from Aunis and Saintonge in France who were skilled at building dikes.
They were able to reclaim rich alluvial lands that were flooded regularly by the strong tides pushing up the
Bay of Fundy and also to harvest salt from the marshes that were left to dry.
Charles Mahaffie gives a good description, "The key to (the Acadians) success - and indeed the key to
understanding the way of life that evolved in Acadia in the last half of the 17th century - is one of nature's
most remarkable phenomena, the tides of the Bay of Fundy. The bay is so formed and so located that it has
the world's highest tidal range - 20 to 30 feet at its mouth, 40 to 50 feet in the narrow bays and basins at the
head. Where the shore is low and flat - as it is in the lower Annapolis Valley and the Minas Basin and at
the ends of Chignecto Bay - the tides of thousands of years have brought and taken away sediment, tons of it
every day. More has been brought than taken, and some 76,999 acres of tidal marshland are the result.
"Using a simple system borrowed from the Netherlands and other low lying parts of Europe," Mahaffie
continues, "the Acadians turned it into cropland and pasture. Earthen dikes held back the tides and ditches
drained the marshes. The ditches led to wooden sluices under the dikes and the gates hinged at the top -
opening automatically at low tide with the flow of water out of the marsh. As the tide rose, the reverse flow
pushed them shut, keeping out the sea. Fresh water from springs and streams flushed the salt, and the
marshes dried, leaving meadowland so rich that even today it produces fine stands of hay without fertilizer."
D'Aulnay's plans to convert Acadie from a fur trading outpost to a settled agricultural community seemed to
be coming to fruition. But he was not to enjoy the fruits of his labors. Early in 1650, a canoe carrying d'Aulnay
and a servant overturned near Port Royal while he was inspecting a diking operation. The servant survived,
but d'Aulnay drowned in the frigid waters.
D'Aulnay's death left the Acadian colony with little direction and, as usual, virtually no help from France. The
settlers turned to the soil, and to New England. For once, the French and the British needed each other. The
fertile Annapolis Basin gave the Acadians enough crops to feed themselves with some left over to trade in
Massachusetts, where a huge influx of Puritans caused a food shortage.
New Puritan colonists were flocking to New England faster than crops could be grown to feed them, and
Yankee traders had little recourse but to look to the neighboring French farmers. The trading was completely
illegal, but neither official France nor official England took much notice of it.
The trade brought a measure of independence to the Frenchmen in Acadie. Farming, along with some fishing
and hunting, gave them a good livelihood. They found that they could survive in the New World through their
own efforts, despite the neglect of official France. They began to think of themselves as allies of France, but
citizens of Acadie. They spoke French and remembered French roots, but they had become Acadians.
According to early histories, they lived in a place favored by nature and, even
in the early times of the settlement, began to form the communal bonds that are a part of their cultural heritage today.
Acadie, drawing from accounts by Father Ignace de
Senlis, a priest who came to Acadie about the same time as the first families.
"On Sunday," Saint Pere wrote, "the Acadian farmers emerged from the folds of this charming valley, some in
canoes, others on horseback, their wives and daughters riding behind, while long lines of Micmac, brightly
painted and with colorful ornaments, mingled with them. Around the church grounds, (Charles Menou, Sieur
d'Aulnay) had developed extensive green areas, which were called les champs communs, where the arrivals
tethered their mounts and left their belongings. After the service, the colonists relaxed on the champs
communs, discussing crops, hunting, progress of clearing the land, the work undertaken by the Siegneur, a
thousand and one topics about their private lives and gossiping the way it is done in all French countries.
"D'Aulnay himself often mingled with them," Saint Pere continued, "recounting adventures of his travels into
the interior Indian country. Many old timers...added their bit to the conversation, while the most venerable
sages of the Micmacs often solemnly joined in the convesation. It was an auspicious occasion to find out how
each family was making out. The banter naturally encouraged new marriages and ways to establish new
homes on new farms, because one of the dominating desires was to increase the number of homes."